Contents
Preface/Acknowledgments Introduction San Francisco: A Brief History Overview Map
The Walks: The Castro / Eureka Valley Chinatown Civic Center Cow Hollow / Union Street Embarcadero – The Old Waterfront Financial District Haight-Ashbury Jackson Square Japantown / The Fillmore Market Street Mission District Nob Hill North Beach Pacific Heights Portsmouth Square Russian Hill South of Market Telegraph Hill Photo/Illustration Credits Select Bibliography Index
Introduction
This book contains walking tours of eighteen San Francisco neighborhoods. Each chapter begins with practical information about the walk including the approximate length and time it takes. Each walk is also rated Easy, Moderate, or Strenuous depending on the steepness of the streets on the route. San Francisco is a city of hills; there is no getting around it. Parts of some tours will be difficult for those with limited mobility, or even impossible for those in wheelchairs. In the information box at the head of each chapter I have indicated under “Hills” the streets that might pose a problem.
Another problem is getting to the locales themselves and, if you're driving, finding parking. It is certainly better to take public transportation if you can and avoid the hassle and expense of parking. I have indicated the major San Francisco Municipal Railway bus and streetcar lines for each neighborhood, but it would be best to pick up a transit map. Muni publishes its own map, entitled “The Official San Francisco Street and Transit Map,” which sells for $2.00 and can be found at newsstands and similar outlets. You can also call Muni at (415) 673-6864 and get specific help from an operator in terms of telling you how to get from where you are to where you want to go. If you do drive, I have given information on where to best find parking. Always check street signs for posted regulations. You don't want to return to your car to find that it has been towed away. Note also that most residential neighborhoods have two-hour time limits for those without a requisite parking sticker on the bumper. A few tours, especially in the downtown area, are located near BART stations, so I have mentioned those stations where appropriate. (BART is Bay Area Rapid Transit, and in downtown San Francisco is a subway running under Mission and Market streets.)
I have also listed where public restrooms are on each route. Fortunately, the City recently struck a deal with a private firm to install public toilets in heavily traveled areas. They are big, oblong, green-painted things that are generally clean and easy to use. Put 25 cents in the slot and the door slides open and then closes automatically behind you. Just press a large button by the door to exit. These green booths have the added advantage of having easy-to-read maps of the city on their exteriors in case you get lost or wonder where you are in terms of the bigger picture.
After the block of practical information that starts each chapter, an introduction provides an overview of the history of that neighborhood, to help set the scene for the sites you will be visiting. Then the numbered locations start. All directions, in terms of where to walk and which corner a particular building is found on are in italics. If you are having trouble finding a place, ask a passerby. Most residents know their neighborhoods well.
San Francisco: A Brief History
San Francisco's first inhabitants were Indians whose ancestors arrived more than five thousand years ago. They lived undisturbed for millennia until a troop of Spanish soldiers under the command of Captain Gaspar de Portolá arrived in 1769. He and his band were the first Europeans to see San Francisco Bay. Portolá's expedition was followed in 1776 by a settlement party under the command of Juan Bautista de Anza. On June 29 of that year the settlers, including several priests, celebrated a mass near present-day Mission Dolores, thus marking what is considered the official founding of San Francisco.
Spain's rule over San Francisco and the rest of California lasted less than two generations. Spain's crumbling empire led Mexico, which included California, to declare independence in 1821. So San Francisco, or Yerba Buena as it was called then, became a sleepy port at the northern end of the new republic of Mexico. In 1835 William Richardson, a former British seaman, became the first permanent resident at Yerba Buena Cove, a sheltered curve in the shoreline on the northeast corner of the peninsula that later became the heart of downtown San Francisco. He was joined the following year by Jacob Leese, who built a home next door. By 1839 there was enough in the way of population and dwellings for resident Jean Vioget to lay out a few streets around the central plaza. He used the prevailing Spanish unit of measurement, the vara (one vara equals 2.75 feet, so 50 varas—a common lot size—equals 137.5 feet), which became the standard for the blocks and lots used in San Francisco.
In 1846, clashes between the U.S. and Mexico led to war. American naval forces under the command of Captain John B. Montgomery came ashore on July 9 of that year, raised the American flag over the plaza—soon to be called Portsmouth Square after his ship, the Portsmouth—and claimed San Francisco for the United States. The following year the new government changed the town's name from Yerba Buena to that of the bay it fronted—San Francisco. A few months later surveyor Jasper O'Farrell corrected the Vioget plat, which was off by a few degrees, and greatly expanded it, mapping out a real city with plenty of room to grow. He also created Market Street, San Francisco's broad main boulevard.
On January 24, 1848, James Marshall, who was directing the construction of a sawmill in Coloma, a camp on the American River in the Sierra foothills, found a gold nugget in the mill's tailrace. This discovery kicked off the famous California gold rush. It took a couple of months for the news to reach San Francisco, but soon after it did the town's few hundred residents departed almost en masse for the gold fields. They were the vanguard of the multitudes that would soon descend on the hamlet on the shore of Yerba Buena cove. By 1849 San Francisco was a boomtown caught in the full cry of the gold fever. The population mushroomed. Gambling, prostitution, and other entertainments flourished. Construction boomed and real estate rocketed upward in value. San Francisco was on its way to becoming a real city.
But the huge influx of people led to growing pains. San Francisco suffered six major fires in an 18-month period starting in December 1849. Tents and shaky frame dwellings were soon replaced by buildings of brick and stone. A few of these, mainly in the Jackson Square district, still survive.
Physical upheaval was accompanied by social upheaval. Due to perceived threats to public order, a Committee of Vigilance was formed in 1851 by the town's leading merchants to combat what they saw as a crime wave. Five years later a second committee was organized when a prominent newspaper editor, James King of William, was shot down in the street by James Casey, a corrupt politician who had stolen an election to the Board of Supervisors. Casey and several other victims were hanged and a number of other undesirables were banished before the Committee disbanded.
The 1860s saw the rise of a select group of men who became fabulously wealthy and dominated the City's affairs. Leland Stanford, Charles Crocker, Mark Hopkins, and Collis P. Huntington—who became known as the Big Four—were the majority shareholders in the Central Pacific (later renamed Southern Pacific) Railroad, which built the western half of the transcontinental railroad between 1863 and 1869. They profited largely from the labor of Chinese immigrants, who despite their unstinting efforts faced racism and discrimination in their quest for a better life in their adopted country. Severely proscribed in where they could live and what occupations they could practice, they withdrew into their own enclave, the forerunner of today's Chinatown. The Big Four, meantime, built showplace mansions atop prominent Nob Hill.
The discovery of silver in western Nevada led to other fortunes being amassed in the 1860s and 1870s. William C. Ralston and Darius O. Mills, who founded the Bank of California in 1864, were the initial beneficiaries of what was called the Big Bonanza—the richest silver discovery ever. Ralston, with his share, built the Palace Hotel and a number of other edifices before his untimely death in 1875.
The two bankers were soon superceded by a quartet known as the Bonanza or Silver Kings: James G. Fair, James C. Flood, John Mackay, and William O'Brien. Fair and Flood, in particular, left their mark on San Francisco, Fair by accumulating a great deal of real estate, and Flood (and later his son) in building ego-gratifying mansions.
The wealthy lived in splendor up on the heights, but down below near the waterfront, the bottom of the heap existed in a cesspool of vice known as the Barbary Coast. A hangout for criminals of all kinds who profited from prostitution and shanghaiing of the unwary for forced sea duty, the Coast had its heyday during the latter half of the 19th century. But when the Red Light Abatement Act, which was passed to close down the ubiquitous brothels, was finally upheld by the California Supreme Court in 1917, the raucous district faded away.
The Barbary Coast is gone, but two other San Francisco institutions that started in the 19th century are still going strong today: Golden Gate Park, where the planting of greenery among the sand dunes began in 1870; and the cable cars, which were first launched in 1873. The latter proved ideal for overcoming the City's steep hills. At the peak in the late 1880s, a dozen cable car lines extended 112 miles all over San Francisco. Today, a reduced back system of three city-owned lines covers 19 miles in the northeast corner of town.
Shortly after the page turned from the 19th to the 20th century, San Francisco underwent a radical change. On April 18, 1906 the city was struck by one of the largest earthquakes ever recorded in North America. Damage was initially moderate, but the shaking left the city's water mains broken. A number of small fires soon blazed out of control and merged into one huge conflagration. The fire raged for three days and destroyed almost the entire downtown as well as South of Market and parts of the Mission District. The losses were staggering: 28,000 buildings burned and 250,000 people, or roughly two-thirds of the population, were left homeless.
Once the debris was cleared the City was quickly rebuilt, even though it had to contend with a messy corruption trial that targeted the mayor, Eugene Schmitz, his advisor and fixer, Abe Ruef, and the entire Board of Supervisors. The graft-influenced and shoddily built City Hall, which suffered heavy damage in the earthquake, was demolished and replaced by a beautiful Beaux-Arts structure that now forms the centerpiece of a grand Civic Center complex. These fine government buildings are about all that was effectively realized from a grand plan for San Francisco that had been proposed by the leading urban planner of his day, Daniel H. Burnham. Burnham had drawn his inspiration from the “City Beautiful” movement, which incorporated classically inspired public buildings into city plans featuring parks and boulevards.
As the 20th century progressed, San Francisco continued to grow. Despite the Great Depression of the 1930s, both the Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge were pushed through to completion. The decade ended with San Francisco hosting a world's fair, the Golden Gate International Exposition, more commonly called Treasure Island, after the island in the bay on which it was held.
When the United States entered World War II, in 1941, San Francisco started its transformation into the highly diverse and open society it has become today. The war brought a huge influx of newcomers to the City as soldiers poured in to man the many military bases in the Bay Area. African Americans came in large numbers from the South to work in defense plants and settled in the Japantown/Fillmore area—replacing the Japanese Americans who been unjustly removed as potential enemy aliens.
After the war, change became the order of the day as first the Beats, in North Beach in the 1950s, started a counterculture revolution, which was followed by the flowering of the hippies in Haight-Ashbury in the 1960s. The Summer of Love in 1967 was chronicled the world over. In the 1970s, gays settled in large numbers in Eureka Valley\'97known today as the Castro—and established their own community. The postwar changes continue to be felt today as San Francisco has built an enduring reputation as a city of diversity of all kinds: racial, ethnic, religious, and sexual.
A
Abner Phelps House, 142–43
Abraham, Charles, 66–67
Admission Day Monument, 217
Albert Samuels Clock, 227–28
Alcoa Building, 89
Alemany, Archbishop Joseph S., 20
Allen, Woody, 302, 304
Allyne Park, 76
Andromeda Saloon, 300
Ann's Nightclub, 295
Anxious Asp, 288
Anza, Juan Bautista de, 64, 240
Apollo, 130
Applegarth, George, 314
Argonaut, The, 72, 81–82
Argüello, Luís, 237
Arkansas, The, 93–94
“Armory Hall,” 126
Armstrong, Louis, 188, 202
Arthur Conan Doyle House, 311
Asawa, Ruth, 201
Atherton House, 310–11
Atherton, Dominga de Goni, 310
Atherton, Faxon, 310
Atherton, Gertrude, 82, 310, 313, 355–56
Atkinson House, 354
Atkinson, Joseph H., 355
B
B'nai David Synagogue, 242
Bagley, David T., 248
Baird, John H., 140
Bakewell & Brown, 213
Balance, 178
Balance Place, 177
Baldwin Hotel, 142, 228–29
Baldwin, Elias J. “Lucky,” 228–29, 231–32
Bancroft Building, 224
Bancroft Library, 225
Bancroft, Hubert Howe, 224–25, 372
Banducci, Enrico, 294, 302–4
Bank Exchange, The, 343
Bank of America, 115, 165, 345
Bank of America clock tower, 371
Bank of California, 113, 115, 119–20
Bank of Canton, 31
Bank of Italy, 165–66, 344–45
Bank of London and San Francisco, 121
Bank of Lucas, Turner & Company, 170
Barbary Coast, 93, 161–84, 275
Bareilles, Thomas, 67
Bartlett, Washington A., 333–34
Basin Street West, 297
Bassity, Jerome, 37–38
Bay Bridge, 370, 372
Bayley, William, 361
Beat era, 71, 287, 290
beatnik, 299
Beats, the, 278
Beckett Alley, 28
Bell, Teresa, 192–93
Bell, Thomas, 192–93, 205
Bella Union, 333–34
Belli, Melvin, 167–68, 181
Belt Line Railroad Roundhouse
and Sandhouse, 100–101
Belt Line Railroad, 376
Benjamin Franklin statue, 286
Biddle, George, 405
Bierce, Ambrose, 148
Black Cat, 341
Blackstone, Nathaniel, 66
Bliss and Faville, 211–12
Bliss, Walter D., 226
Bogart, Humphrey, 400
Bolton, Reverend William, 73
Boom Boom Boom, 203
Bop City, 201–2
Bourn Mansion, 322
Bourn, William B., II, 322
Brace, Philander, 130
Brannan, Samuel, 94, 124, 331, 333, 340
Bransten, Edward, 309
Bransten, Florine, 309
Briones, Juana, 275, 281, 284
Broadway Wharf, 94
Broderick-Terry duel, 120
Brooklyn, The, 94, 333
Brown, “Professor” Bothwell, 200
Brown, A. Page, 87
Brown, Arthur, Jr., 405
Brown, John, 205–6
Brown, John Henry, 339–40
Bruce, Lenny, 168, 202, 293, 295, 297, 304
Buchanan Street Mall, 201–2
Buddhism, 189
Buddhist Church of San Francisco, 189–90
Buena Vista Park, 147
Buena Vista West, 148
Bufano, Beniamino, 21
Burgess, Gelett, 336, 355, 357, 359
residence of, 357
Burnham and Root, 113, 221
C
Cable Car Barn and Museum, 259
cable cars,
birthplace of, 338
invention of, 258
Caen, Herb, 296, 407
Caffe Trieste, 290
California Historical Society, 318
California Palace of the Legion
of Honor, 326
California Star, The, 333
California Street Cable Railroad
Company, 270
California Street cable-car line, 271
Call Building, 223, 226
Calle de la Fundacion, 331–32
Cameron, Donaldina, 25, 39–40
Candelario Valencia Adobe, 239
Cannery, The, 91
Cape Horn Warehouse, 386
Caruso, Enrico, 219
“Casa Grande,” 331
Casebolt Henry, 79
Casebolt Mansion, 79–80
Casey, James, 129, 237, 293, 344
“Cast Iron” Building, 121
Castro, The, 1–14
Castro Camera, 8
Castro Theatre, 10–11
Cavalli, A., 298
cemeteries, 197
Central Tower, 222
Chaney, William H., 379
Charles Crocker Estate, 261
Charles Manson residence, 154
Charles Stanyan House, 197
Cherry Blossom Festival, 189
Chiang Kai-shek, 24
Chinatown, 15–40, 188
“Chinese Six Companies,” 23
Chinese fishing village, 386
Chinese Historical Society of America, 26
Chinese immigrants, 385
Chinese Presbyterian Church, 27
Chinese Presbyterian Mission Home, 24–25
“The Chutes,” 152–53
Citizens Savings Building, 224
City Hall, 336–37
City Hotel, 135, 339
City Lights Bookstore, 278, 298–99
Civic Center, 41–60
Clark's Point, 94, 178–79
Clark, William Squire, 94
Clarke, Alfred E. “Nobby,” 4–5
Cliff's Variety, 10
Clock Tower Lofts, 375
Co-Existence Bagel Shop, 288
Coffee and Confusion, 289
Coffee Gallery, 289
Cogswell, Henry D., 286–87
Coit Tower, 114, 286, 383, 396, 405
Coit, Lillie Hitchcock, 286, 382, 405, 408–9
Coleman, Edward, 308
Coleman, John, 310
Coleman, William T., 261
Colombo Market, 91–92
Colton, David, 264
Colton, Ellen, 264
Columbo Building, 165
Columbus Avenue, 165, 278
Columbus Savings Bank, 166
Columbus Tower, 287, 301
Columbus, Christopher,
statue of, 405
Commercial Street, 34–38, 131
Comstock Lode, 115
Comstock silver mines, 119–20, 231
Condor, The, 291–92
Conrad, Barnaby, 295
Coolbrith, Ina, 169, 350–51, 355–56, 365–66
home of, 355
Cooney, John, 396
Cooper Alley, 29
Coppola, Francis, 291, 295, 301
Cora, Charles, 129, 237, 293
Cosby, Bill, 295, 304
Cottage Row, 199
Coulter, William, 118
Cow Hollow, 61–82
Coxhead, Ernest, 77
Crabtree, Lotta, 167, 220, 254
Cranston and Keenan, 146
Cranston, Robert Dickie, 146, 149
Crocker, Charles, 258, 263
Crocker, William, 262–63, 265
Crown Zellerbach Building, 215
Cudworth House, 73–74
Cudworth, James W., 73–75
Curlett, William, 226
second Custom House, 121–22, 335
D
Dailey, Gardner, 396, 401, 407
Daily Morning Call, 132
dairies, 64
dairy farming, 64
Dallams, Richard, 320
Dallams\_Merritt House, 320
Daly, John, 249
Daniel Burnham & Company, 358
Dark Passage, 400
Davies, Mr. and Mrs. Ralph K., 364
Davis Street Wharf, 86
Davis, Jacob, 98
Davis, Sammy, Jr., 296
Davis, William Heath, 121
Day, Clinton, 225
Del Monte Corporation, 91–92
DeMille, Cecil B., 283
Dempsey, Jack, 300
Diana's, 184
Diaz, Benito, 61
DiMaggio, Joe, 284
Dixon, Maynard, 168, 353
Doane, Marshall, 248
Dr. John Townsend House, 118
Doda, Carol, 291–92
Donahue, James, 213
Donahue, Peter, 213, 375
Donaldina Cameron House, 24–25, 27
Donohoe, Joseph A., 372
Douglass Elementary School, 6–7
“The Drogstore,” 146
“Duck House,” 399, 401
“Duncan's Bank”, 116–17
Duncan, Isadora, 117
Duncan, Joseph C., 116–17
Duncombe Alley, 27
Dunn, James F., 321
E
Eckstein, Cassius W., 254
Eddy, William, 65, 282
Edward Coleman House, 308
Edwards, Jimbo, 201–2
801 Guerrero Street, 246
1801 Octavia Street, then and now, 190
El Camino Real, 253
El Dorado, 336–37
El Matador Nightclub, 295
Elephant Walk Bar, 9–10
Embarcadero, 83–104
Embarcadero freeway, 88
Emperor Norton, 120, 133–34
Emporium, The, 227, 229
Enrico's, 294
Episcopal Church of St. Mary
the Virgin, 73
Eureka Valley, 1–14
Executive Order 9066, 188
Express Building, 122
F
Fair, James G., 111, 114, 191, 258, 265–67
Fairmont Hotel, 266–67
Farnsworth, Philo T., 96, 103–4
Favilla, Cherubino, 66
Faville, William, 226
Federal Reserve Building, 211
Feinstein, Mayor Dianne, 201, 286
Ferlinghetti, Lawrence, 72, 278, 283,
286–87, 296, 298
Fernando Nelson home, 7–8
Ferry Building, 86–87, 207, 210, 215
Feusier Octagon House, 363
Feusier, Louis, 363
Filbert Street steps, 401
Fillmore Auditorium, 203–4
Fillmore, the, 140, 155, 185–206
Filoli, 322
Financial Center, 122
Financial District, 105–36
First National Gold Bank of
San Francisco, 211–12
First Public School House, 337–38
Fisherman's Wharf, 86, 275, 284
Flood Building, 228–29
Flood Mansion, 265
Flood, Cora Jane “Jennie,” 323
Flood, James Clair, 114, 229–230, 258,
265–66, 322
Flood, James L., 229–30, 322, 324
Folsom, Joseph, 136, 374
Fontana, Marco J., 91
Fonteyn, Margot, 154
Forbes, Helen, 400–401
“Fort Gunnybags,” 129
Fort Mason, 100
Fort Montgomery, 97
“Fountain of the Tortoises,” 264
Fowler, Orson, 75
Franklin Hall, 200
Fugazi, John, 166–67
Funston, General Frederick, 267
G
Genella Building/Belli Annex, 168
Genella, Joseph, 168
Genthe, Arnold, 32
Ghiberti Doors, 263
Ghiberti, Lorenzo, 263
Ghirardelli Building, 177
Ghirardelli Chocolate Company, 177
Ghirardelli, Domingo, 177
Giannini, A. P., 92, 115–16, 165–67,
326, 344–45
Gibb, Daniel, 95
Gibb-Sanborn Warehouse, 95
Ginsburg, Allen, 71, 278, 298
Girls' Friendly Society Lodge, 191
Gold Street, 178
Goldberg, Rube, 35–36
Golden Era, 169
Golden Era Building, 168
Golden Gate Bridge, 116
Golden Gate Fortune Cookie
Company, 32
Golden Gate Park, 137, 140–41, 147, 197
Golden Gate Valley Library, 77
Golden Gateway Apartments, 90
Golden Gateway Center, 92
Gordon, George, 376, 378
Gordon, Rebecca, 196
Gough, Charles, 76
Grace Cathedral, 263
Graham, Bill, 152, 204
Gran Oriente Filipino Hotel, 378
Grant, Joseph Donohoe, 324
Grant, Ulysses S., 81, 126–27, 219
Grateful Dead, 141, 145, 149–50, 155,
204, 296, 301
Grateful Dead house, 149–50
Graves, Dr. John, 252
Gray Brothers, 391, 395
Gray Brothers Quarry, 96
Guerrero, Francisco, 237
Guglielmo Marconi memorial, 407
H
Haas, William, 316
Haas-Lilienthal House, 316–17
Haggin, James Ben Ali, 258, 260,
273–74
Haight-Ashbury, 137–60
Haight-Ashbury Free Clinic, 151
Haight/Straight Theater, 155
Hall of Justice, 336–37
Halleck, Henry, 342, 374
Hallidie Building, 109
Hallidie, Andrew, 258–59, 270–71, 338
Halprin, Lawrence, 98, 282
Hammett, Dashiell, 110, 230
Hanford, Robert G., 352–53
Hanford\_Verdier Mansion, 352, 355
Harte, Bret, 82, 132, 169, 197, 343
Harvey Milk Civil Rights Academy, 6–7
Harvey Milk Plaza, 12
Hayes, Thomas C., 48, 59–60
Hayward, Alvinza, 122
Hearst Building, 222–23
Hearst, George, 273
Hearst, William Randolph, 222
Hechinger, Anna, 67
Hecht, Isaac, 78
Hell's Angels, 141, 150
Hell's Angels Headquarters, 150
Henry Miller home, 372–73
Hetherington, Joseph, 130
Hibernia Bank, 9
Hill, Thomas, 110
Hinkel, William, 195
Hippodrome, 182–83
hitching post, 121
Hobart Building, 216
Hobart, Lewis P., 263, 314, 363, 371
Hobart, Walter Scott, 216
Hoff Store, 128
Hoff, William C., 128
Holladay, Samuel, 311–12, 315
Home for the Care of the Inebriate, 281
Homer, Charles, 353
Hooker, John Lee, 296
Hooper's South End Grain Warehouse, 384
Hooper, John, 384
Hopkins, Mark, 258, 264, 268–70, 273
Hopkins, Mary, 268–69, 272
Hotaling Annex East, 176
Hotaling Annex West, 173
Hotaling Place, 178
Hotaling Stables, 174
Hotaling's Warehouse, 172–74
Hotaling, Anson P., 164, 172–74, 176
“House of Many Corners,” 352–53
“House of Mystery,” 192
House of the Flag, 351
Howard, Henry T., 405
Howard, John Galen, 127
Howison's Pier, 127
Howl, 72, 298
Hudson's Bay Company, 116, 125
Hudson's Bay trading post, 125
Humboldt Bank Building, 226
Humboldt Savings Bank, 227
hungry i, 279, 294, 301–4
Hunter-Dulin Building, 109
Huntington Park, 264
Huntington, Collis P., 82, 258, 264
Hyatt Regency Hotel, 210
I
Ikagami Konko Daijin, 194
Ina Coolbrith Park, 350
Independent Wood Company, 97
Indian sweat house, 125
“International Settlement,” 180
“International Settlement” towers, 181
Iron Pot Restaurant, 341
Italian Swiss Colony, 99–100
J
Jack's Bar, 203
Jackson Square, 161–84
Jacob Leese House, 332
Jacob Leese warehouse, 125
James Ben Ali Haggin House, 259–60
James Leary Flood Mansion, 324
Japan Center, 188, 201–2
Japantown, 185–206
Japantown Peace Plaza, 202
jazz, 183, 189
Jazz Workshop, 297
Jefferson Airplane, 141, 149
Jefferson Airplane house, 149
Jenkins, John, 335
“Jennie” Flood Mansion, 322–23
Jenny Lind Theatre, 336–37
“Jewel Box,” 266
Jimbo's Bop City
See Bop City
Jobson's Tower, 347
John Daly home, 249–50
Johnson, Hiram, 400
Jones/Vallejo ramp, 360
Jones, Elbert P., 333
Joplin, Janis, 141, 145, 159–60, 204, 288
Josie's Juice Joint and Cabaret, 11
jousting tournament, 404
Juana Briones adobe, 284
Julius' Castle, 402
K
Kahn, Sidney P., 395
Kasuga, Teruro, 193
Kaufman, Bob, 288
Kavanaugh, James, 249
Keenan, Hugh, 146
Kelham, George, 112, 130, 215
Kelly, Colin P., Jr., 384
Kentucky Stables Building, 180
Kerouac, Jack, 71, 288, 298–99
Kershaw, Marsden, 247
King, James, 129, 293
assassination of, 344
Kinmon Gakuen, 198
Kinokuniya Bookstore, 203
Klee, Henry, 92–93
Knickerbocker Company #5, 382, 408–9
koban, 201
Kohl Building, 122–23
Kohl, C. Frederick, 123
Konko Church of San Francisco, 194
Kostura, William, 67
Kuomintang Building, 24
L
Lafayette Park, 311–13
Laguna de los Dolores, 233, 240
Lange, Dorothea, 353
Lange, F. W. M., 148
Langerman's/Belli Building, 167–68
Langerman, William, 167
Lark, The, 355, 357
Larkin, Thomas O., 61, 77, 135
Latham, Milton, 273
Law, Herbert, 266
Layman's Castle, 403
Leahy, David, 145
Leese, Jacob P., 125, 327, 332
Leidesdorff Street, 118, 131
Leidesdorff warehouse, 120
Leidesdorff, William A., 116, 118, 120,
127, 135–36, 237, 339
residence, 115
Leland Stanford Jr. University, 270
Leland Stanford Mansion, 269
Lenoir, Henri, 299, 342
Levi Plaza, 98
Levi Strauss & Co., 98
Lexington Street, 243
Lick House Hotel, 109, 111
Lick, James, 110, 170, 178
Lilienthal, Ernest, 309
Lilienthal-Pratt House, 309
“Little Pete,” 32–33
Livermore, Horace, 357
Livermore, Horatio P., 356, 360–61
Livermore, Norman, 360–61
London, Jack, 148, 314, 343, 366, 379
birthplace of, 379
London, John, 379
Lone Mountain Cemetery, 147, 197, 355
Long Wharf, 34, 131
Look Tin Eli, 18, 22
Lotta Crabtree property, 254
Lotta's Fountain, 220, 254
Lucca Ravioli Company, 252–53
Lurie, Louis, 269
Lurline, 212
Lux, Charles, 390
M
Mackay, John, 265
Madam Marcelle, 37–38
Madame C.J. Walker Home for Girls and Women, 196
The Maltese Falcon, 110
Manson, Charles, 141, 154
Marchant, Grace, 401
Marconi, Guglielmo, 407
Mark Hopkins Mansion, 268
Market Street, 207–32
Marshall houses, 359
Marshall, James, 330
Martens and Coffey, 157
Martin, Mayris Chaney, 400
Masonic Lodge, 108
Matson Building, 212–13
Matson Houses, 317
Matson Navigation Company, 212
Matson, Lillian, 317
Matson, Lurline, 318
Matson, William, 317–18
McAllister Tower, 55
McElroy, William C., 76
McLaren, John, 364
McMullen, John, 247
Mechanics Monument, 213–14
Mechanics Pavilion, 49
Medico\_Dental Building, 176
Meiggs, Henry, 285
Merchants Exchange Building, 90, 118
Metro Theater, 74–75
mikvah, 242
Milk, Harvey, 4, 7–10, 12–14
Miller and Lux, 390
Miller, Henry, 274, 372, 389–90
Mills Building, 113
Mills, Darius Ogden, 113, 119, 206
Miramontes, Candelario, 327
Mish House, 143
Mish, Sarah, 144
Miss Mary Lake's School for Young Ladies, 191
Mission District, 233–54
Mission Dolores, 129, 136, 233, 236, 253, 290
Mission Dolores (Original), 240
Missouri Mule, 12
Monaco Theatre Restaurant, 182–83
Montgomery Avenue, 275
Montgomery Block, 127, 143, 341–44
Montgomery Street, 105
Montgomery, John B., 330, 334, 345
Moraga, Lt. Jos<130>, 237
Morgan, Julia, 26, 362–63
Morning Star School, 191
Morrison, David M., 356
Moscone, George, 9
Most Holy Redeemer Church, 5–6
Mother's Nightclub, 296
Moulin Rouge, 182
Mr. D's, 296
“Municipal Crib,” 28–29
Museum of Money of the American West, 120
Mutual Savings Bank, 224
N
National Society of Colonial Dames of America, 76
Nelson, Fernando, 8
Nelson, George “Baby Face,” 300
Neutra, Richard, 395
Nevada Bank, 115
Nevada silver mines, 266
New Chicago Barbershop, 204
“New World Tree,” 242
Newsom Brothers, 198, 246, 362
Niantic, 345–46
Nichiren Buddhist Church of America, \tab 196
Nicol, Duncan, 343
Nihonmachi Festival, 189
Nihonmachi Little Friends School, 198
1906 earthquake and fire, 185, 245, 267,
269, 271, 282, 290, 305,
308, 327, 347,
351, 362, 372–373, 387
Nob Hill, 255–74
Nobby Clarke Mansion, 4–5
Noé, José de Jesus, 1, 253
Norris, Kathleen Thompson, 156
North Beach, 275–304
Notre Dame Plaza, 238–39
Nureyev, Rudolph, 153–54
O
O'Farrell, Jasper, 65, 207, 275, 282, 330, 332
Occidental Hotel, 111, 261
Octagon House, 75–76, 363
Oelrichs, Tessie Fair, 267
Ohabai Shalome Synagogue, 193
Old Broadway Jail, 292–93
Old Call Building, 222, 224
Old Chinese Telephone Exchange, 30–31
Old Chronicle Building, 221, 223
Old County Hospital, 279
Old Custom House, 334
Old Federal Reserve Bank, 130
Old Fire House–Engine Company #1, 181
Old Firehouse–Engine Company #21, 141–42
Old Firehouse–Engine Company #30, 158
Old Fisherman's Wharf, 101
Old French Consulate, 171
Old Graveyard, 285
Old Masonic Hall, 156
Old Mint, 230
“Old Peoples Home,” 279–80
Old Ship Saloon, 92–94
Old St. Mary's Church, 20–21
Old St. Mary's Hospital, 387
Old Waterfront, 83–104
Older, Fremont, 28
Omni Hotel, 122
Opera Plaza, 198
Oriental Bonded Warehouse, 383–85
Origami Fountains, 201
Orozco, Jose Clemente, 406
Osbourne, Fanny, 336, 359
P
Pacific Coast Stock Exchange Building, 114
Pacific Gas & Electric, 212–13
Pacific Heights, 305–26
Pacific Heritage Museum, 132
Pacific Mail Dock, 370
Pacific Mail Steamship Company, 384–85
Pacific-Union Club, 265–66
Palace Hotel, 127, 218–220
Palou, Father, 240
Panama Pacific Exposition, 324
Panhandle, the, 137, 140–41, 144
Parisian Mansion, 37
Parker House, 336–37
Parker, Charlie “Yardbird,” 202
Parrott Building, 121–22
Pastron, Allen, 128
Patigian, Haig, 285, 403
Paul, Almarin B., 355–56
Paul, Florence, 356
“Pauper Alley,” 118
Pell, Elijah Ward, 77
Peter Donahue house, 375
Pettus, Reggie, 204
Pfeiffer's Castle, 280–81
Pfeiffer, William, 280–81
Pflueger, Timothy, 11, 75, 114
Phelan Building, 226
Phelan Mansion, 313
Phelan, James Duval, 144, 217, 226, 313
Phelps, Abner, 143
Pier 1, 88
Piggott, Miss, 91
Pioneer Park, 405
Pissis and Moore, 249
Pissis, Albert, 229, 249
Pixley Street, 68–69, 71, 82
Pixley, Frank M., 68–69, 72–73, 81–82
Platt's Hall, 113
Pleasant, Mary Ellen, 192–93, 196, 205–6
Polk, Willis, 109, 118, 122, 216, 222, 265,
313, 322, 355–56, 358–61
Pony Express, 341
Port of San Francisco, 88
Portsmouth House, 340
Portsmouth Square, 255, 258, 327–46
Presbyterian Mission House, 39–40
Presidio and Ferries Railroad Car Barn, 175
Presidio Road, 61, 65, 67, 70, 73
prostitution, 20–21, 24, 28–30, 32, 35–38, 184
Psychedelic Shop, 151
Q
Queen Anne Hotel, 191
R
Ralston, William C., 115, 119–20, 206, 218
Rancho San Miguel, 253
Real Estate Associates, The, 185, 194–95, 200, 243–44
Red Light Abatement Act, 38, 180
Redevelopment Agency, 198
Reid Brothers, 78, 165
Reid, James, 74
Reid, Merritt, 74
Rexroth, Kenneth, 287
Richardson, William A., 327, 331
Ridley, Robert, 116
Rincon Hill, 260, 367–90
Riordan, Archbishop Patrick, 20
Rivera, Diego, 406
Robert Louis Stevenson Monument, 336
Robinson, David G. “Yankee,” 395
Rolling Stone magazine, 380–81
Rolph, James “Sunny Jim,” Jr., 251
Roosevelt, Eleanor, 400
Roosevelt, Franklin D., 188, 357, 405–6
Roosevelt, Theodore, 25, 326
Ross Alley, 32
Roth, William P., 318
Rube Goldberg property, 35
Ruef, Abraham, 28, 38, 301
Russ Building, 112–13
Russ, Emanuel Charles Christian, 112
Russian Hill, 347–66
S
Sacred Heart School, 191, 324
Safe Deposit Company of San Francisco, 117
St. Benedict Parish, 190–91, 289–90, 315–16
St. Ignatius College, 227
Saints Peter and Paul Church, 283–84
Samuel Holladay House, 311–12
San Francisco Art Association, 269
San Francisco Brewing Company, 300
San Francisco Call, 222
San Francisco Chronicle, 223
San Francisco Examiner, 222–23
San Francisco Fire Department headquarters, 382
San Francisco General Hospital, 279
San Francisco Redevelopment Agency, 194
San Jose Avenue, 253
San Jose Road, 253
Sansome Burial Ground, 95
Sawvelle, Myrtle, 399
Sawyer, Houghton, 352
Sawyer, Tom, 343
Scannell, David, 293
Schmidt, Max, 375
Schmitz, Mayor Eugene, 28, 38. 267, 301
Searles, Edward, 269
Second Committee of Vigilance, 129, 344
“Second Street Cut,” 367, 370, 373–74, 378
Security Pacific Bank Building, 225
Semple, Robert, 340
Serra, Junipero, 237
Shanghai Kelly's, 91
shanghaiing, 83, 90–91, 93
Sharon, William, 206, 383
Shell Building, 112, 215
Shell Oil Company, 215
Sherman and Clay, 78
Sherman House, 78–79
Sherman's Bank, 169–171
Sherman, Leander S., 78
Sherman, William Tecumseh, 169–71, 219
Silver Kings, 115
Sing Chong Building, 21–22
Sing Fat Company, 21–22
Sisters of Notre Dame de Namur, 238
Six Gallery, 71
Sloss, Louis, 309
Sly, Lucian H., 271
Smith, Dr. David, 151
Smith, George D., 269
Snyder, Gary, 278
So Different Club, 183
Society of St. Andrews, 364
South End Historic District, 371
South End Warehouse Company, 383, 386
South of Market, 367–90
South Park, 260, 376, 378
Southern Pacific Building, 211–12
Southern Pacific Railroad, 82, 100, 109, 211, 264, 271, 381
“Speedy's” New Union Grocery, 397
Spider Kelly's Saloon, 184
Spreckels Mansion, 314
Spreckels, Adolph, 313–15, 325
Spreckels, Alma de Brettville, 314–15, 318, 325–26
Spreckels, Claus, 222–23
St. Louis Alley, 31–32
St. Mary's Square, 21
St. Vincent de Paul Roman Catholic Church, 79
Stacey's Bookstore, 216
Stackpole, Ralph, 114, 168
Stanford Court Hotel, 269, 271
Stanford, Leland, 82, 144, 258, 264, 269–71, 273
Stanyan Park Hotel, 157
Stanyan, Charles, 197
Stecher, Traung & Schmidt, 375
Stern, Robert A. M., 356
Stevenson, Robert Louis, 255, 336, 359, 374
Stockton, Commodore Robert F., 116
Stoddard, Charles Warren, 366, 374
Stoecke, Father William, 190
Strauss, Levi, 98
“Street of the Gamblers,” 32
Streisand, Barbra, 295, 302, 304
Sub-Treasury Building, 132
Sullivan, John, 20
Summer of Love, 140, 149, 152, 155
Sun Yat-sen, 21, 24
“Sunny Jim” Rolph boyhood home, 251
Sutro, Adolph, 147, 264, 281
Sutro, Dr. Emma, 320
Sutter, John, 136, 350
Swain, Edward R., 318
Swain, Howard, 87
Swedenborgian Church, 359–60
Swig, Benjamin, 267
Swiss-American Hotel, 292, 294
Sydney Walton Square, 90
T
Taylor, Charles L., 199
Tehama House Hotel, 119–20
Telegraph Hill, 278, 391–409
Telegraph Hill Dwellers Association, 92
television, invention of, 96
Temple Emanu-El, 193
Terminal Hotel, 210
Tetrazzini, Luisa, 220
Tevis, Lloyd, 258, 273, 376
The Cellar, 287
1301 Montgomery Street, 398
Tilden, Douglas, 214, 217
Tin How Temple, 33–34
Toland Medical College, 281
Toland, Dr. Hugh, 281
tongs, 23, 33
Top-of-the-Mark, 269
Topaz, Utah, 189–90, 198
Townsend Building, 381
Townsend, Dr. John, 118
Transamerica Building, 166
Transamerica Corporation, 166
Transamerica Pyramid, 342, 344
Tremont Hotel, 175
Tremont Stables, 176
Tucker, J. W., 319
“Tuckertown” House, 319
Twain, Mark, 82, 132–33, 169, 343, 355–56, 363, 366
Twin Peaks Tavern, 11
U
U.S. Custom House, 89
U.S.S. Portsmouth, 330, 334, 345
Union Pacific Railroad, 211
Union Street, 61–82
Union Trust, 225
University of California San Francisco Medical Center, 281
V
Valencia, Candelario, 239
Vallejo, Mariano, 332
Vanderbilt, Virginia Fair, 114, 191
Vedanta Temple, 69–70
Verdier, Felix, 352
Vesuvio Caf<130>, 298–99
Victory Hall, 23
Vigilance Committee of 1851, 261, 335
Vigilance Committee of 1856, 66, 170, 237, 261, 293
Vioget House, 340
Vioget, Jean-Jacques, 327, 330–31, 340
Virginia City, Nevada, 231
Vollmer, John J., 198
Volunteer Firemen Memorial, 285
W
Wagner's Beer Hall, 291
Wagner, Ferdinand, 291
Washerwoman's Lagoon, 64–65, 68
Washington Square, 275, 281–82
Waverly Place, 33
Wellman, Flora, 379
Wells Fargo, 124
Wells Fargo Bank, 212, 225
Wells Fargo History Museum, 124
Wells Fargo/First National Bank, 108
Wentworth Alley, 30
What Cheer House, 126, 376
White, Dan, 9
Whittier Mansion, 318–19
Whittier, William F., 318
Whittlesey, Charles F., 357
Wilde, Oscar, 113, 168, 219
William Gray, 99
William T. Coleman House, 260
Willis Polk house, 358
Wilson, A. W., 315–16
Women's Building, The, 241
Woodward, Robert, 376
Worcester, Joseph, 359
Works Progrress Administration, 147
Wormser, Isaac, 310
Wormser-Coleman House, 309–10
Wurster, William, 400
Y
Yamasaki, Minoru, 202
Yerba Buena, 61, 65, 116, 135, 161, 169,
253, 327, 330, 332, 334, 345
Yerba Buena cemetery, 95, 285, 350
Yerba Buena Cove, 86, 105, 120–21, 127, 164, 255, 331–32, 367, 391
Yung, Nicholas, 262
YWCA, 26
Z
Zaentz, Saul, 296
Zellerbach, Anthony, 216
Zellerbach, Harold, 326